Friday, March 30, 2018

Wilson Adventures II: Suntori Sit Start

The steep gully, hemmed in by walls of featureless limestone, opened up into a small snowfield, but higher up it necked down again. As the beam of my headlamp swept up the nearly vertical chimney, instead of the hoped-for snow bowl, it revealed nothing but blank, bulging rock walls. I'd led us into a dead end.

Traversing to a snow arete bordering the gully on the right, crampons scratching on rock under a thin covering of snow, I looked down into another couloir. It seemed more open than the one I'd been following. Maybe it was the right one? I traversed back into the dead-end gully and pounded in a knifeblade. Adding a stubby screw, I shouted down, "Secure!"

A few minutes later a headlamp appeared below, and soon thereafter Alik himself. After a brief discussion of our options, he tensioned over and down into the other gully. Removing the screw and leaving a 'biner on the piton, I followed, the jury-rigged toprope cutting into the faceted snow of the arete separating the gullies. After pulling the rope and retying in, I continued my lead block. Some hard snow, a step of thick ice, and a vast snow bowl opened above me, more guessed at than seen in the darkness.


Mt. Wilson is to Rockies ice climbing what Grotto Mtn is to its rock climbing. You can spend a whole winter season (or several) on its flanks, and still have more ice to dream of. One of the finest routes on the entire south face has to be Suntori: a pencil-straight line leading to the base of the white quartzite towers crowning the summit ridge. It was first climbed in a three-day effort by Cory Balano, Dave Edgar and Dave Marra. Treating it like an alpine route, they took it all the way to the summit ridge and descend the huge avalanche funnel of Lady Wilson's Cleavage back to the road.

The formidable team of Jay Mills and Eamonn Walsh made the second ascent. Not only did they free the mixed crux, but after an early start from the road, they topped out with daylight to spare. I didn't think Alik and I could match their speed. However, I had another plan in mind.

A drop of water falling from one of the bone-white towers on the summit ridge would flow down the discontinuous ice of Suntori, here and there dropping through thin air to splatter on an ice pedestal. It would then percolate through the avalanche slope below the route, before dripping from the lip of the snapped-off dagger of Stairway to Heaven and free-falling for an entire ropelength. Tired now after all the excitement higher up, it would meander down the rolling ice of Midnight Rambler, before coming to rest among the trees broken by the huge avalanches that, once or twice in a winter, roar down the from nearly a vertical mile above.

I'd always thought retracing the drop's path in reverse would be the best way of climbing Suntori: scrambling up Midnight Rambler in the dark; arriving at the base of Stairway to Heaven at first light; above its overhangs, walking straight up to the start of Suntori; and finishing through the quartzite towers, likely once again in the dark. Planning an early start, Alik and I drove up the Icefields Parkway the night before. A warm wind whooshed through the evergreens on the valley bottom. It wasn't quite the high pressure we'd have liked, but conditions seemed good enough to try. Walking a hundred metres into the darkened forest, we spread out our mats and sleeping bags, and settled in for a few hours of restless sleep.

The pencil-straight line of Suntori from the Icefields Parkway. Stairway to Heaven is behind the treetops.

The south face of Mt. Wilson from a couple of kilometres up the road. Stairway to Heaven is the right-hand dagger (the left-hand one is another story, and hopefully the subject of Wilson Adventures III). The ice above Stairway to Heaven is Living in Paradise (and hopefully the subject of Wilson Adventures IV). Suntori is hidden in the gully to its left. Lady Wilson's is the funnel on the far left.

Alik Berg links the first two pitches of Stairway to Heaven. Anything to save time; the days are short in January.

Sporting an outfit to match the azure ice behind, yours truly starts up the top pitch of Stairway to Heaven. Photo: Alik Berg.

Alik Berg walks up the slope above Stairway to Heaven, as flurries swirl in from the west. Nothing to worry about (or so we hope).

The upper south face of Mt. Wilson. Suntori is on the left, the daggers in the middle are unclimbed, and the crux first pitch of Living in Paradise is hidden behind the rock buttress on the right.

Murky weather on the slope between Stairway to Heaven and Suntori.

Anticipating a long haul, we stop at the base of Suntori to rehydrate.

The first pitch looks trivial, but the rotten, detached ice requires some non-trivial gymnastics. Photo: Alik Berg.

On the other hand, the second pitch proves surprisingly straightforward, with good gear and short cruxes. Even the sun puts in an appearance. Photo: Alik Berg.

A few ropelengths higher, Alik Berg starts up what is probably the best pitch of the route. A short icicle leads to a near-vertical ice hose, almost reminiscent of an Alaskan goulotte.

Alik Berg battles brittle ice at the start of the pitch.

A couple of ropelengths higher the headlamps come out. Fortunately it is the last "hard" pitch - unless, that is, you leave the main drainage and go questing up another gully to the left.

After slogging up the snow bowl below the quartzite towers, we pull into a sheltered cave at their base. Photo: Alik Berg.

At this point we've been going for fifteen hours or more. We stop to have some soup and regroup before facing the last few pitches through the towers and the descent. While waiting for the water to boil, Alik Berg amuses himself by levitating an ice tool.

After finishing the soup, we step out of the cave and into the steep gully above. Climbing between bone-white walls, pulling over chockstones, we're not sure if the gully isn't going to dead end in overhanging rock until we see it roll over into the gentle humpback of the summit ridge. Photo: Alik Berg.

We plunge down the other side: downclimbing steep snow around walls of glacial ice, and rappelling here and there when the ground below seems too steep to downclimb. Eventually we reach the low-angled trough of Lady Wilson's Cleavage. After changing batteries in our fading headlamps, we continue: walking, downclimbing, rappelling. Eventually we find ourselves walking in our crampons down the snow-covered Icefields Parkway, almost twenty-four hours after we left it.

Summary: An ascent of the Midnight Rambler-Stairway to Heaven-Suntori linkup on the south face of Mt. Wilson by Alik Berg and Raphael Slawinski, January 7, 2018.

Saturday, March 24, 2018

Wilson adventures I: Tupperware Tea Party

I'm afraid I've let my blog slide. Not that it matters much, given how these days lengthy blog write-ups are out and insta-posts are in, but I can't help feeling a bit guilty. My excuse is that since I last wrote about Juan's and my misadventures in Hyalite, I traveled to 3 more ice climbing festivals, giving clinics and slideshows. In between these extended weekend trips, I tried to get out as much as possible back home in the Rockies. All the while, the elephant in the room was something called a full-time job. It didn't leave much time for blogging. A matter of priorities, I suppose.

To begin catching up, I thought I'd start by going back to last December, and the story of an abandoned mixed project. Tom Ballard was in the Rockies for a few weeks, living up to his reputation as one of the strongest winter climbers around. After we made plans to go climbing, I tried to think of something that would keep young Tom amused. An unrepeated Simon Anthamatten-Ueli Steck route seemed like a good choice, at least the night before. Unfortunately I got up uncharacteristically early, and dawn was still a ways off when we pulled off the Icefields Parkway opposite the route. I wasn't sure it was actually in, so between the prospect of festering in the car until it got light, and all the fresh snow blowing around, I suggested driving on toward Plan B instead.

Years ago (and we're talking about the past millennium here), Kefira Allen, one of the pioneers of multi-pitch M-climbing in the Rockies, invited me to check out hers and Dave Thomson's latest project. Nightcrawler, as they were calling it, connected two ice pillars by climbing out stacked rock roofs on a sunny cliff band on Mt. Wilson. Sporting leashes and 3-ply Goretex, somehow I managed to hold on and scratch my way up the crux pitch without falling. I lowered off and we headed down. I don't believe Kefira and Dave ever went back. Almost 20 years later, as Tom and I sat by the side of a snowy Icefields Parkway, I remembered the long-abandoned line.

I wasn't sure if Kefira and Dave ever finished bolting their project so just in case, in addition to ropes, screws and draws, we also dragged a full rock rack and a power drill up the rolling ice of Midnight Rambler. As it turned out, we'd be taking most of that technology for a walk.

"Mind if I try for the onsight on the first pitch?" Tom asked. Wishing to be a gracious host - and having done it before - I made ready to belay. A few minutes later Tom was alternating hands on a tool, feet pasted below a roof. He'd reach up to what seemed like a likely edge, then, disappointed, sink back down again. Eventually, with a grunt and a curse, he uttered the dreaded word: "Take!" Understandably, he wanted to lower off and try again, but having dragged the drill all this way, I insisted we continue and check out the second pitch. It was a pleasant surprise to find that, other than having to cut out strands of old rope stiff with age, dust and ultraviolet, the second pitch was all rigged and ready to go. After rapping off, we even each had time for another burn on the crux first pitch.

"What do you think, Tom, M8?"

"I never miss an onsight on an M8."

"OK, M8+, then."

Yours truly scrambles up Midnight Rambler, with the broken-off dagger of Stairway to Heaven looming above. Stairway to Heaven gains the ice from the left, Tupperware Tea Party from the right. Both routes start up a short pillar that can only be seen when you're almost standing at its foot. Photo: Tom Ballard.

Tom Ballard locks off to gain the initial ice, which never seems to quite touch down.

Both Stairway to Heaven and Tupperware Tea Party have optional belays just above the ice (on the left and right, respectively), but with a few long slings, both are easily skipped. And after all, who wants to climb 20-metre pitches when you can climb 40-metre ones?

While Stairway to Heaven skirts the roofs on the left, Tupperware Tea Party tackles them more or less directly. A mess of old fixed rope hangs above Tom's head, a reminder of the heady late 1990s, the early days of M-climbing in the Rockies.

The crux first pitch of Tupperware Tea Party (if you skip the optional belay, that is) isn't steep enough to be tempted by the dark arts of figure-4s and 9s, but steep enough that keeping your feet on takes some body tension.

The second pitch is much easier, but without it the route would be just a masturbatory exercise in drytooling. Instead, you get to swing over to a gravity-defying dagger. Photo: Tom Ballard.

From the top of the route you get a front-row view of the upper cliffs of Mt. Wilson, with the slender threads of Suntori (on the left) and Living in Paradise (on the right). But those are stories for another time (Wilson Adventures II and IV, if I get around to telling them).

The rappel from a v-thread just above where the hanging ice attaches to the rock is an exhilarating affair, especially as you swing in and out of the water streaming from the lip of the ice.

Tupperware Tea Party, 90 m, M8+ WI5
FFA: Tom Ballard and Raphael Slawinski, December 14, 2017

This is an old Kefira Allen and Dave Thomson project. It climbs the right side of the hanging ice on Stairway to Heaven. I believe Kefira and Dave were calling their project Nightcrawler, I hope they wouldn't mind Tom and me renaming it. Given Dave's and Tom's English origins, the tea-themed name seemed more appropriate.

Approach as for Stairway to Heaven by climbing Midnight Rambler (WI3). The only gear needed for Tupperware Tea Party is a bunch of quickdraws (including some long slings) and a handful of screws, though some small-to medium cams (purple to red Calamot, say), can be useful to protect the transition to the ice on the second pitch.

Pitch 1: 40 m, M8+ WI4+: Climb a stubby pillar, which often doesn't quite reach the ground. From its top, trend right past an optional belay station to a series of stacked roofs. Lock off and reach through these to gain a good stance at a foot ledge. Judicious use of long slings keeps the rope drag reasonable.

Pitch 2: 50 m, M5+, WI5: Step left from the belay and follow the line of bolts to where you can bust left toward the hanging ice. Climb vertical ice to where it kicks back to a mellow gully. Belay from ice screws, trees up and left, or bolts on a ledge on the right.

To descend, make a short rappel to the lowest reasonable stance on the ice, then a long one (2 x 60 m) to the ground.