Showing posts from December, 2018

The Nutcracker

The Bozeman ice fest in early December has become a bit of a tradition for me. Drive down, see some old friends, teach a couple of clinics ("Kick like you poo, swing like you screw."), and get in a day or two of climbing in Hyalite Canyon. This valley just south of Bozeman holds an outsized place in the history of North American ice and mixed climbing. Pat Callis, Jack Tackle, Alex Lowe and many others have set new standards of skill and boldness on its icy - and notoriously loose - walls. Last year I was joined by Juan Henriquez and we had an excellent day on the Big Sleep , a classic Doug Chabot-Alex Lowe route. With Juan away in South America, I messaged Jess Roskelley  to see if he wanted to get out after the fest. He was keen. We'd met before and hung out in locales ranging from Chamonix to Islamabad, but we'd never climbed together. I'd first heard of Jess in connection with a bold first ascent in Washington , a mess of chandeliers badly adhered to th